Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and visitors equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a prestigious list of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old food heritage and dynamic gastronomic culture," as stated by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its soul: an immense love for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known delights that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is precise and involved. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their younger generation do not want to learn the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will encourage more people globally to learn these tales and visit the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
